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El Salto

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El Salto is without any doubt one of the best crag in the country. It's located in the South of Monterrey, in the National park, "Cumbres de Monterrey",at 1300m.

You can find several sectors among them "Las Animas" and "La Cueva". Placed in a very beautiful canyon, you will enjoy climbing on a very compact and sculpted rock.

El Salto is a perfect place, so please respect it!

Big Grey Tuffa, 5.12d in Las Animas

Big Grey Tuffa, 5.12d in Las Animas

Access:

-From Mexico, take a night bus to Monterrey, 1000 pesos. There are bus every hour until 11pm. The ride last for 10 hours.

-From Monterrey bus station, take an other on to Santiago in the south (40 pesos, every 15min).

- There you'll have to take a third bus to Cienega de Gonzalez up in the mountain (30 pesos, 1h ride). The bus place departure is near a pharmacy, nearby the central square . In 2013, you have two way up at 8am and 3pm and two way down at 9am and 1.5pm.

- If you couldn't take the bus, a taxi will cost you around 400 pesos from Santiago, 650 from Monterrey.

-Of course you can rent a car, but quite expensive and useless in the village.

Accomodation:

- The local climber Fernanda Rodriguez bought a piece of land in the village and accomodated it for camping. For 50 pesos a day you can find a kitchen, hot water, and a very friendly place with other climbers.

- A second way is to camp on the proprety of Kika Gonzalez in the "center" of Cienega. Ask the bus to stop near "Kika deposito".

It wil cost you around 60 pesos a day, included hot shower, kitchen and utensil. Furthermore, it's very welcoming sharing this place, the kitchen with Kika's family. So do not hesitate to stay with this kind family!

- You can also rent bungalow or houses in the village (1200 pesos a week)

- You can camp in the cave, but including 40min walking...

 

The open Kitchen

The open Kitchen

food:

- Kika own a small market ("tienda") with necessary food, like beer, water, pasta, rice, a few vegetable...

- But we recommend you to buy the maximum food in the valley in Santiago, and then see if it's suitable taking a bus. If not, take a cab.

- It is very commun to share food with Kika's family. We made pancakes, they made "frijoles", "tortillas",...

climbing:

- There are 3 main sectors and a smaller one.

- La Boca: we didn't climb there. Grades up to 14a, mainly in 5.12 and 5.13. The walk is very short (8min) and the crag East oriented. (sun in the morning). You can find an other sector, "La Sabrosa" 30min further in the canyon (not tried).

- Las Animas: the big sector. A 25min walk leads you to the sector. More than 50 lines, between 11a and 14a, uniformly distributed. Lines up to 45 meters on vertical to slightly overhanging perfect rock. Tuffa, crimps, pocket... West oriented. Several routes in the middle part are now closed (2016) due to prehistoric paintings. Please respect this restrictions.

Avoid this sector the week end as 4*4, quads and other noisy vehicules use the track as playground...

- La Cueva del Tecolote: overhanging and powerful routes in a very cool cave. Enjoy from 11d to 14a. Nord-West oriented. 45min of walk in a beautiful canyon.

- Las Marranas: it's a small cave at 50m of the main road, 3km from Cienega de Gonzalez. You will find a small amount of route but with all grades (from 5.9 to project).

 

The cave, with Nosferatus, 12c and Las Animas with Ungabunga 13a.
The cave, with Nosferatus, 12c and Las Animas with Ungabunga 13a.

The cave, with Nosferatus, 12c and Las Animas with Ungabunga 13a.

Chi, 13d in the cave.

Chi, 13d in the cave.

season and conditions:

- You can climb in El Salto all over the year. But be careful, it may be very cold in the winter. In summer, it could be very humide and with water in the canyon, the walk could be difficult.

- In Las Animas, you have shadow until 11am and after 4pm thanks to the canyon (march), and until 12am an after 2pm in july.

- In the cave, the sun comes around 1-2pm. But the inside of the cave stay in shadow.

- In La Boca, the sun comes around 9am until 1pm.

- In Las Arramas, the shadows stays all day long.

 

guide and approach:

- I provide a small piece of guide and the acces.

El Salto
El Salto
A part of Kika's family as well as local climbers

A part of Kika's family as well as local climbers

Las Animas
Las Animas

Las Animas

listing (all grades are approximated, especially for new routes all-in right and left):

0: very recent routes (??, 5.8, 5.12b, 5.11+)

1: All Along the watchtower 5.10+

2: Ulrica Martin 5.10a

3: The power of cheese 5.13?

4: Angeles caminan entre nosotros 5.12+

5: Malvavisco 5.12a

6: Bonkatron 5.12c

7: Cara cortada 5.12a then 5.12c

8: Dirt white scorpion 5.12d

9: Alien tufa 5.11c / 5.12d

10: Blood brother 5.11d

11: Muchas Cornhuelas 5.12a

12: Body groovin' 5.12c

13: Culo de negra 5.12a

14: La guitarra de honero 5.13c

15: Hino 5.12b

16: Lazy boy lover 5.12d

17: Tufalina 5.12c / 5.13a

18: Tufaluna 5.13a

19: Panocha poderosa 5.13a

20: Ramones' mushroom 5.11c

21: Big grey tuffa 5.12d

22: Inertia 5.13b

23: Caronte 5.13a

24: La vida de una mariposa 5.13c

25: Todo o nada 5.14? (closed)

26: La maquina en el jardin 5.13a (closed)

27: El primer paso del ultimo dia 5.13a (closed)

28: Tufalero: 5.12c (closed)

29: Ungabunga 5.12d, Ungabunga X-mas 5.13c (closed)

30: La guitarra de Lolo 5.13d (closed)

31: proj  (closed)

32: Touched by god 5.14?(closed)

33: Assasino en silencio 5.14? (closed)

34: Purigatorio 5.13b, Murder weapon 5.13b/14a

35: Bizzare contact 5.12a/b

36: ?? 5.13b then 5.13c

37; Life after you 5.14?

38: Tufa king short 5.13b

39: Dante's inferno 5.13d then 5.13d/14a

40: Camino de Chino 5.13b then 5.13c

41: Strict Machine 5.13d

41: Dirty grey tufa 5.12d

42: Quesadilla 5.12c, Quesadilla de Or 5.12d

43: Midnight City 5.12d?

44: I vision 5.11

45: Ez street 5.11c/d

46: Corazon de Güera 5.10c

Guide of La Cueva (The Cave)

Guide of La Cueva (The Cave)

Listing:

1: Amor 5.11c

2: Felicidad 5.11d/12a

3: Desconsido 5.12a

4: Missing Hanger 5.12a

5: ?? Dangerous

6: Limestoner 5.12b

7: Culo de Fuego 5.13a

8. La violencia 5.13a

9: Golden man 5.12b

10: Tecalote 5.13a (roof gym)

11: Huiratica 5.13b

12 Nosferatus 5.12c

13: H-bomb 5.14a

14: Kika Shredder 5.13a/b

15: Soul Power 5.12c, extension ??

16: Chi 5.13d (bouldery)

17: Merlin's culo 5.10b

18: Andrada 5.13d

19: Dial M for Monkey 5.13c

20: Super Chongo 5.11b - Super super chongo 5.13a

 Las Arramas (Cumbia Cave)

Las Arramas (Cumbia Cave)

Listing:

1: 5.9

2: 5.9

3: 5.9 then 5.11d or 5.12a

4: 5.12

5: 5.12b then 5.12d

6: 5.13a? then project

7: unfinished

8: 5.13b?

9: 5.11d

Chonta

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THE cave in Mexico, full of tuffa, steap, and peaceful. A big potential above 5.12 principaly.

Chonta
access:

-From Mexico CIty, Taxquena bus station, take a bus to Taxco (every 2h) or Cuernavaca (every 30min). Then, take an otherbus to "Las Grutas de Cacahuamilpa". Then you have to take a taxi for 5min (30 pesos) asking for the Procopio's family, whose ranch is located there: GPS: 18.641488,-99.508073

- The procopio will help you on different points: luggage delivery with donkey and horses to the cave (1h ride for 80 pesos each animal: 30-40kg each). They can buy you food if you want to stay a long time at the cave, juste give them a shopping list. They also provide drinkable water (20 liters). If you have any question, as owner of the land, they will kindly answer (only spanish).

One of the 20 Procopio's child...

One of the 20 Procopio's child...

accomodation:

- The beautiful city of Taxco is full of hotel and restaurant. But you'll have to make a 40min bus ride every day in addition of the 40min huking.

- You ask to put your tent in the ranch, avoiding the bus ride.

- In the cave, there are lots of plane place for your tent, dry WC. You are 1min far from the sectors. better option.

take a shower

- There is a second cave 20-30min away, with an underground river. There, it's kind of a magic place. Ask the location (easy) to the Procopio. It's a 20 degre celsius water.

Don't forget your headlamp for the access!!!

The second cave entrance.

The second cave entrance.

climbing:

-It's mostly a tufa climbing. You can find an old guide (2009, but enought), in climbing shop in Mexico city for 100 pesos.

- Be careful with rope drag when the route is too long, overhanging and full of tufa! Bring long draws. Quickdraws removal tedious!

- The cave is north oriented but you have to avoid the sun.

- Sun from 7am to 10am at Reina del Sur sector en March, and from 4pm to 6pm on the left part.

- Situated at 1300m, it's a very warm place, up to 35 celsius degres. But fresher down in the cave.

- Avoid the rain season from june to september.

- Quite low crowded in the week, some local climbers during the week end.

- A clean climbing in the upper cave parts, more fragile and dirty down.

Chonta
Chonta

Listing:

1: ? 5.11c

2: ? 5.10c

3: Silencio Interno 5.13a then 5.13b (50m)

4: Las tres atenciones 5.12c then 5.13c (50m)

5: ? 5.13b? (50m)

6: El Pendulo 5.13d

7: Mago Colibri, 5.13a then 5.13d (50m)

8: ?? 5.14a/b (50m)

9: La Bocina, 5.12c

10: Tigrillo, 5.13b

11: Pepita de Oro, 5.13b/c

12: Suc de Toronja 5.13c

13: proj ?

14: Reina del Sur 5.12d

15: proj ?

16: Biatch 5.12b

17: ? 5.10d

18: ? 5.11a

Cueva de Actopan

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There are two sectors, a small cave with hard routes (12 and more) and a Céüse rock sector with 5.10 to 5.12b.

Beautiful view in an area full of cactus. Not so much routes but one of the best.

Cueva de Actopan
access:

-From Mexico city, go to Pachuca, 2h by bus from the north station. From Pachuca bus station, take a bus to Actopan, but ask specifically if it stops at "El Arenal". Aks to the driver to stop there, 11 pesos for 40min.

-From El Arenal, you have something like 3km of bar road. You can walk or take a taxi for 70 pesos the way up and down.

Acces, and sector location.Acces, and sector location.

Acces, and sector location.

- The sector "La Colmena" is reached in 5min while you need to walk 30min to the cave.

accomodation:

- There are a few hotel in Pachuca (hotel Noriesga, 300 pesos) and Actopan. Favour Pachuca for its tipical center and its "reloj". From Pachuca center to the cave, count 2h.

. If you need calm and you are are strong as an ox, sleeping in the cave could be an option, safe and peaceful.

Matanga, 13b, a perfect line.

Matanga, 13b, a perfect line.

food:

- In Pachuca and Actopan, you can find supermarket and restaurants.

- In El Arenal, you have lot's of "tienda" with all basic food.

- The state of Pachuca is very famous for his "Pastes", savoury or sweet! Taste it!!

climbing:

- The crag is south oriented but you can climb all over the year in the Cave due to fresh air and almost no sun due to overhanging wall. In la Colmena, it will be more complicated..

- No guide known but in la Colmena, the hardest grade is a 12b and it's easy to estimate the difficulty of each route.

- I provide a small guide of the cave with the principal routes.

- In the cave, you can find one of the best 5.13 in the country, roof style on alveole pocket!

Traumatologia 13b and Rarotonga 13d.
Traumatologia 13b and Rarotonga 13d.

Traumatologia 13b and Rarotonga 13d.

Cueva de Actopan

1: 5.12a
2: 5.11b **
3: B -> 3 Tauma 5.13a ***
4: B -> 4 Traumatologia 5.13b ***
5: (anchor 3) Matanga 5.13b ***
6: Galatea 5.14a
7: Penitente 5.12c (extension in 5.13b)
8: Kracken 5.12a (extension in 5.13b) (start in the right bottom of the cave)
9: A -> 9 Trikitonga 5.13c (starts in Rarotonga en ends in the middle of the cave, full roof)
10: A -> 10 Rarotonga 5.13d ***
11: A -> 11 Rarotonga 5.13a ***

El Pico de Orizaba, 5650m (normal route)

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This volcan, also known as Citlaltepetl, is the highest mountain in the country. It's situated between the state of Puebla and the state of Veracruz. The normal route start on the north face at La Piedra Grande.

It's an easy summit, even if the altitude and the presence of snow or bad weather may lead to a more difficult ascent.

The summit from Tlachichuca

The summit from Tlachichuca

acce:

-from Puebla bus station, take a bus to Tlachichuca, 2h, 62 pesos. The frequency is about every hour.

- in Tlachichuca, you can find two families who take care of Citlaltepetl ascent. The Reyes, and the Canchola.

- they will bring you up to La Piedra Grande, 4250m, which is the beginning of the normal route. There you can find the refuge. This transfer is made by 4*4 car, during 2 hours and is very rough. It cost you 2000 pesos, the way up and down, for 2 persons.

- there is no cash-point in Tlachichuca, so don't forget to bring enough money with you from Puebla or Mexico.

from the car, to La Piedra Grande.

from the car, to La Piedra Grande.

accomodation:

- In Tlachichuca (2500m), the Canchola provide room and diner.

-You can also sleep in the refuge, but you'll have te bring your own stuff, like sleeping bag, air mattress, food, water. The Canchola can supply all this equipment.

- The Canchola are very welcoming, smiling and generous.

El Pico de Orizaba, 5650m (normal route)El Pico de Orizaba, 5650m (normal route)
The ascent:

- Don't forget that this is a hight altitude summit, and appropriate precaution must be taken.

- Count between 2h30 and 6h for the summit, depending on you shape and your load. The last third part is done on a up to 35 degree glacier but without pur ice. So don't forget stud, at least for the way back. The Canchola rent stud for 350 pesos each pair.

- The path is not well indicate so take care in case of bad weather. It start just above the refuge.

The refuge, the summit, and the telescope from the top.The refuge, the summit, and the telescope from the top.The refuge, the summit, and the telescope from the top.

The refuge, the summit, and the telescope from the top.

- From the top, you can see the 2009 milimetric telescop below, but also, far away, the Popocatepetl and the Iztaccihuatl. Ocean may be visible by very clear weather.

- The descent is done in 1h30 to 4 hours. It's better to stud even if there are no ice crack.

El Pico de Orizaba, 5650m (normal route)
Season, meteo:

- The season spreads from december to april if you want to avoid snow.

- You must be at the top before 10am. After mist can develop.

- Usely no wind and quite hot (tshirt + gore-tex), but don't forget to bring warm clothes.

note:

-the summit altitude is not well defined, you can find something between 5600 and 5750m on the web.

-the summit can be done only with sneakers, at your own risks.

Potrero Chico

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The most impressive wall in Mexico. Fine 500m vertical swords.

Potrero Chico
access:

- from Mexico city, terminal del Norte, take a night bus to Monterrey. (each hour) It's a 11h hours ride but confortable with a first class ticket. It costs around 1000 pesos.

- then, in Monterrey bus station, take an other bus to Hidalgo. Ask for direct bus (each hour) which is two time quicker than others (1h ride). 30 pesos.

- From Hidalgo, you juste have to take a Taxi (70 pesos) to Potrero Chico. Ask for "La Posada".

accomodation:

-La Posada, a nice and friendly camping, but quite expensive. 75 pesos a night for each persone, all included: shower, tents, kitchen stuffs, gaz, swimming-pool. There, you can meet lot's of climber, mainly from US and Canada.

-If you searching for more comfort and calm place, you can rent a room with a large bed for 75 pesos, in front of La Posada, included kitchen and gaz.

early breakfast in La Posada

early breakfast in La Posada

food:

- There are no supermarket in Potrero Chico, you have to go to Hidalgo to find a small and unique supermarket crowded and over-supplied. You can easly go there by hitch-hiking. For more than 400 pesos bought, the market take you back in Potrero for free.

- La Posada have a restaurant part, so you can eat or just buy a beer every night.

- There is a local market in Hidalgo every Tuesday for fresh food.

climbing:

- Potrero Chico is very famous for his beautiful and his long multi pitch.

- 2 or 3 guide existe and can be bought in La Posada.

- The climbing season spreads from november to february. We climbed in March by 35-40 degrees...

- most sport climbing routes are 5.10 and 5.11 graded but you can find nice 5.12 and 5.13 routes in Fin de Semana and Surf Bowl sectors. The first is in the shade before 11am and after 5pm, and the second only after 3pm. Other sectors are less interesting in the 12/13 level.

- a 20 (fin de semana) to 40min (Surf Bowl) walk lead you to the sectors.

-Surf Bowl is the only rain protected sector.

Big Blue, 5.13b in Surf Bowl and a slaby 12c nearby
Big Blue, 5.13b in Surf Bowl and a slaby 12c nearby

Big Blue, 5.13b in Surf Bowl and a slaby 12c nearby

Jilotepec

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An interesting crag, with easy acces, in the north of Mexico city. Very convenient even if the view is not the best.

A dangerous warm-up, 5.11.

A dangerous warm-up, 5.11.

access:

-from Mexico city (DF), take a bus for Jilotepec from the north bus station ("Terminal del Norte") connected with the metro. The "Raza" metro change could be exhausting if you travel heavy.

-A bus take you to Jilotepec, every half hour, in 1h30 for 70 pesos.

-from the bus station in Jilotepec, you have to take an intern bus to the center (if you decide to sleep in a hotel)

-from Jilotepec center or from the bus station, take a Taxi asking for "Las Peñas". It will cost you 140 pesos the way there and back.

-the entrance in the parc will cost you 10 pesos for each of you.

Accomodation:

There are two possibilities:

- Hotel in Jilotepec. There are a few in the center, around 300 pesos the room (for two bed). As you are in the center, you can find all services in the city. But you'll have to take a taxi every day (20min).

- In the parc "Las Peñas", camping is permited. There are lot's of flat place to install your tent. Furthermore, you can find basic restroom. There is no drinkable water on the site!!

Food:

-supermarket and restaurants/fast food in Jilotepec.

- "tienda" (=very small market) 2km before the crag.

climbing:

-the crag is made of conglomerate very atypical and pleasant.

-half of the route are 5.10 and 5.11 graded.

-a few routes in 5.13, 5.14 but mostly are chipped, even if sometimes it doesn't matter that much.

-you can find all wall orientation, so you can climb mostly all the day and all the year.

-there is and old guide (2008), but you can't find it anymore in climbing shop.

here is a list of the grade around "el huevo":

-West face (from bottom to top): 5.11b, 5.11b, 5.12b, 5.12d, 5.13b, proj (dirty), 5.14a, 5.14b/c, 5.13d, 5.13c (***), 5.13d, 5.14a, 5.13d, 5.14c.

-East face (from bottom to top): 5.13?, 5.13?, 5.12a/b, 5.12a/b, 5.11c, 5.10d, 5.10d, 5.10d, new (behind tree), 5.12b/c, 5.12c/d, 5.12c/d (***), 5.13a (right traverse), 5.13b (crimpy start), 5.12d and 5.13b (same start), 5.13b (no chalk), 5.12d, 5.13c

climbing in "Masiosare un extraño enemigo", 5.13c

climbing in "Masiosare un extraño enemigo", 5.13c

More info:

- crowded by locals the week end but only in 5.10/11 routes.

- no one in the week.

- the west face of el huevo is sheltered from rain, over sectors get quickly wet.

- temperature from 5 to 30 degree celsius...

Jilotepec