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The best climbs in Mexico

The mexican sport climbing blog! All informations about major areas in the country, access, guidebooks, photos, conditions, good deal,...

Potrero Chico

Posted on May 9 2013 in Potrero Chico

The most impressive wall in Mexico. Fine 500m vertical swords.

Potrero Chico
access:

- from Mexico city, terminal del Norte, take a night bus to Monterrey. (each hour) It's a 11h hours ride but confortable with a first class ticket. It costs around 1000 pesos.

- then, in Monterrey bus station, take an other bus to Hidalgo. Ask for direct bus (each hour) which is two time quicker than others (1h ride). 30 pesos.

- From Hidalgo, you juste have to take a Taxi (70 pesos) to Potrero Chico. Ask for "La Posada".

accomodation:

-La Posada, a nice and friendly camping, but quite expensive. 75 pesos a night for each persone, all included: shower, tents, kitchen stuffs, gaz, swimming-pool. There, you can meet lot's of climber, mainly from US and Canada.

-If you searching for more comfort and calm place, you can rent a room with a large bed for 75 pesos, in front of La Posada, included kitchen and gaz.

early breakfast in La Posada

early breakfast in La Posada

food:

- There are no supermarket in Potrero Chico, you have to go to Hidalgo to find a small and unique supermarket crowded and over-supplied. You can easly go there by hitch-hiking. For more than 400 pesos bought, the market take you back in Potrero for free.

- La Posada have a restaurant part, so you can eat or just buy a beer every night.

- There is a local market in Hidalgo every Tuesday for fresh food.

climbing:

- Potrero Chico is very famous for his beautiful and his long multi pitch.

- 2 or 3 guide existe and can be bought in La Posada.

- The climbing season spreads from november to february. We climbed in March by 35-40 degrees...

- most sport climbing routes are 5.10 and 5.11 graded but you can find nice 5.12 and 5.13 routes in Fin de Semana and Surf Bowl sectors. The first is in the shade before 11am and after 5pm, and the second only after 3pm. Other sectors are less interesting in the 12/13 level.

- a 20 (fin de semana) to 40min (Surf Bowl) walk lead you to the sectors.

-Surf Bowl is the only rain protected sector.

Big Blue, 5.13b in Surf Bowl and a slaby 12c nearby
Big Blue, 5.13b in Surf Bowl and a slaby 12c nearby

Big Blue, 5.13b in Surf Bowl and a slaby 12c nearby