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The best climbs in Mexico

The mexican sport climbing blog! All informations about major areas in the country, access, guidebooks, photos, conditions, good deal,...

Dinamos 4.5

Posted on July 6 2019 in Dinamos 4.5

Los Dinamos cuarto y medio is a quite recent crag (from 2014), counting up to 120 routes. It's located in theDinamos, in the south-west of the Mexico City at altitude 3400m. I will only present 32 routes of the Cueva and ¿Quien Pompó? sectors, located on the left of the crag (more sectors on the right).

The crag is north-west oriented so, sun until 1-2pm. It's a quite humide place, so you will have to avoid rainy periods.

The rock is volcanic and you can find bouldery routes but also pumpy ones. A climbing stick is very helpful to protect the first point of some routes...

Dinamos 4.5Dinamos 4.5

Access:

- in public transport: take the metro to the Universidad stop. Then take a bus in "Terminal Cetram Metro Universidad-Anden B" asking for "Bernabé/Oyamel, ruta 128". Then you will have to take a taxi to reach the GPS point (see later).

- un car, drive up to  19.266764, -99.287212, costs 10+ 30 pesos. There, you have to take a paved road (3 curved and then cross an artificial stream to take a small path on the right in the forest (5min)). Then you reach a dirt road and follow it on the right for 400m. You will find on your left a path in the forest, leading to the crag after 6min. 25min in total.


 

Guidebook (july 2019):

Dinamos 4.5

listing (all grades are approximated):

1- El Chipilinazo, 5.12d

2- Zombiarrea, 5.13a

3- Pelos De Elote, 5.12a

4- Pelos De Elote Variante Derecha, 5.12a

5- Cascada Pipí De Chipilín, 5.10c

6- Nacido En La Batalla, project in the roof.

7- Cruz Triángulo, 5.13c/d

8- El Jefe De Jefes, 5.14a (same start as 7)

9- El Ansioso, 5.13a

10- Mugre Visual, 5.13b

11- Los Marcianos Llegaron Ya, 5.13b

12- Pandemia, 5.12d

13- Pata de Perro, 5.12c

14- Pamela Chu, 5.13b (exposed)

15- Azul Pintado De Azul, 5.12a

16- Bajo Del Mar, 5.11d

17- Lo Más Vital, 5.11c (bouldery start, then easier, good for warming up)

18- Lo Más Sereno, ?? 17 variant exit

19- Será El Sereno, 5.12c

20- Mamá Naturaleza, 5.12a

21- Caballo Viejo, 5.12d

22- Sopita De Caracol, 5.12c

23- Demasiada Presión, 5.12d

24- Carcacha, 5.11d/5.12a

25- La Tómbola, 5.11c (front of the arrival path, roof then final crack)

26- ¿Quién Pompó?, 5.13d

27- La Rajita De Canela, 5.12c

28- La Cosecha De Mujeres, 5.12d

29- Pasito Tun Tun, 5.13a

30- Tiburón,Tiburón, 5.11d

31- Valquiria, 5.12a

32- Valquiria Del Amor, 5.12c (start with Valquiria then first one is a project so the 2hd one on the right)

 other project on the right