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The best climbs in Mexico

The mexican sport climbing blog! All informations about major areas in the country, access, guidebooks, photos, conditions, good deal,...

Peña de Bernal, El Filo: guidebook

Posted on July 17 2019 in Bernal

A very nice and easy mutli-pitch on the famous mexican monolith. It's located near the touristic town of Bernal, 3h north of Mexico City.

This mutli-pitch is divided in 10 parts, but you can easily skip 3 or 4 belay stations. You will find shadow only in the morning, which is better as the sun could hit very hard.

south face from Bernal town (up), between pitch 8 and 9 (down)
south face from Bernal town (up), between pitch 8 and 9 (down)

south face from Bernal town (up), between pitch 8 and 9 (down)

Access:

You can get there easily by car or by bus from Mexico City or Queretaró.

They are 2 possibilities:

- from Bernal town (start 1), walk to the west face of the monolith (you will enter in Chichidoh property, 70 pesos a day), then, follow the path until a separation leading you to La Meada sector (high ball), follow the path on the left to the wall (25min in total).

- from Chichidoh place (start 2), you have a direct view on El Filo multi-pitch and La Meada high ball. Juste follow the path until the same last separation.

 

Peña de Bernal, El Filo: guidebook

The first 3 pitches are realy well protected with chemical bolts. Then, you will find quite oxyded anchors and sparsely bolts. So better to have experience and some resources left. You can skip R3, R5 and R7/R8.

Peña de Bernal, El Filo: guidebook

Way down:

Heading to the north side, some down-climbing parts, then on the east face. You will find two anchors for rappelling (35m). Then, you can climb down to the end of the touristical (and crowded the week-end) path, not confortable or a 2nd rappel is possible (15m).

Then, follow the path until start 1.