Jilotepec

An interesting crag, with easy acces, in the north of Mexico city. Very convenient even if the view is not the best.

A dangerous warm-up, 5.11.

access:

-from Mexico city (DF), take a bus for Jilotepec from the north bus station ("Terminal del Norte") connected with the metro. The "Raza" metro change could be exhausting if you travel heavy.

-A bus take you to Jilotepec, every half hour, in 1h30 for 70 pesos.

-from the bus station in Jilotepec, you have to take an intern bus to the center (if you decide to sleep in a hotel)

-from Jilotepec center or from the bus station, take a Taxi asking for "Las Peñas". It will cost you 140 pesos the way there and back.

-the entrance in the parc will cost you 10 pesos for each of you.

Accomodation:

There are two possibilities:

- Hotel in Jilotepec. There are a few in the center, around 300 pesos the room (for two bed). As you are in the center, you can find all services in the city. But you'll have to take a taxi every day (20min).

- In the parc "Las Peñas", camping is permited. There are lot's of flat place to install your tent. Furthermore, you can find basic restroom. There is no drinkable water on the site!!

Food:

-supermarket and restaurants/fast food in Jilotepec.

- "tienda" (=very small market) 2km before the crag.

climbing:

-the crag is made of conglomerate very atypical and pleasant.

-half of the route are 5.10 and 5.11 graded.

-a few routes in 5.13, 5.14 but mostly are chipped, even if sometimes it doesn't matter that much.

-you can find all wall orientation, so you can climb mostly all the day and all the year.

-there is and old guide (2008), but you can't find it anymore in climbing shop.

here is a list of the grade around "el huevo":

-West face (from bottom to top): 5.11b, 5.11b, 5.12b, 5.12d, 5.13b, proj (dirty), 5.14a, 5.14b/c, 5.13d, 5.13c (***), 5.13d, 5.14a, 5.13d, 5.14c.

-East face (from bottom to top): 5.13?, 5.13?, 5.12a/b, 5.12a/b, 5.11c, 5.10d, 5.10d, 5.10d, new (behind tree), 5.12b/c, 5.12c/d, 5.12c/d (***), 5.13a (right traverse), 5.13b (crimpy start), 5.12d and 5.13b (same start), 5.13b (no chalk), 5.12d, 5.13c

climbing in "Masiosare un extraño enemigo", 5.13c

More info:

- crowded by locals the week end but only in 5.10/11 routes.

- no one in the week.

- the west face of el huevo is sheltered from rain, over sectors get quickly wet.

- temperature from 5 to 30 degree celsius...